Compost Worms FAQ:

Q: Can one use any earthworms to recycle kitchen waste?

A: NO. Compost worms are “top feeders” who eat 95% organic matter, are humus creators and breed prolifically!

Q: Why should I avoid feeding compost worms acidic foods?

Compost worms "froth" if stressed, eg. acidity or direct sun...

A: Worms naturally avoid acidity, preferring a PH neutral habitat. They will ONLY eat acidic foods once enzymes have broken down acidity. Acid conditions can also harm their sensitive skins. Dip worms in rain water IMMEDIATELY, and then place in shredded newspaper with a diluted honey:water solution. LIME bedding and REMOVE any acid-forming substance.

Q: How often should I harvest the vermicompost?

Compost worms LOVE pumpkin or butternut for natural food bating...

A: Worms should be “rotated” every 3 months or so, as too much poop can cause “worm fatigue” and anaerobic conditions.

Q: How do I bait out my worms in tier wormeries?

A: You can put a honey-pumpkin mix in the top tier. Worms love this treat and will migrate there within 10 days, OR you can place your worms and vermicompost in piles on top of damp newspaper.

Leave to stand for 30 minutes, and scoop of the top 80% of the pile. The worms would have burrowed down to the bottom!

Q: Can I put Red Wrigglers into my compost?

Introduce compost worms to "cool", mature heaps ONLY!

A: Be sure that you NEVER place worms in a “new”, very hot (thermophylic) compost heap. Worms prefer temperatures between 18 – 25 degrees Celsius, and thrive in “cool” (mesophylic), mature compost heaps high in microbes.

Q: How do I introduce worms into my vegetable patch?

A: Worms are excellent bio-indicators, and thus can ONLY be podded in organic gardens. Dig a hole +- 30cm deep. Line with thick wads of paper, pod the worms and vermicast into the hole, fill up with more paper, water down and close. Worms will colonise the garden and move into the vegetable patch in time.

Q: What Do I Do With My Extra Worms?

A: We highly recommend you donate them to a feeding scheme, as the nutrient benefits of vermiculture are massive for immune deficient communities.

Q: Will Earthworms Eat The Roots of My Plants?

A: No! Nematodes do, but there is confusion, as earthworms are always found near roots. They are actually eating the michorhizal spores at the tips of roots, and boost plant growth.

Q: How Much and How Often Must I Feed My Worms?

Compost worms eat MICROBES and enjoy humid, organic decaying green matter

A: Once your worms arrive, they need +-10 days to settle and to colonise the wormery. Compost worms can eat their own body weight daily once settled in. Thus if you start with 250g worms, feed them a 250g tub of food, and count the amount of days the need to eat it. As soon as your worms ARE eating 250g daily, increase the food as the worms breed up…

EARTHWORM FARMS AND WORMERIES:

· keep the moisture and temperature constant

· promote rapid breeding and ideal feeding conditions

· take the “mess” out of worm farming and into the home

· are odourless waste busters that each home needs

Compost worms like albumin-rich eggs shells!

KEEPING YOUR WORMS HAPPY:

You can buy a ready-made wormery farm from us, or make your own. (Vermiculture for farming needs specialist input, and the wormeries need to be adapted accordingly). Whatever you choose, stick to these basics 10 tips for the best results.

1)    Keep your wormery PH neutral - either use agricultural lime (1/4 cup per m2) per week, or Worm Nibbles (a nutrient mix and microbe booster), available from Mother Earthworms.

Agricultural lime neutralises PH, and prevents acidity in your worm farm

2)    Allow for a high moisture “sweaty” environment, by adding moist newspaper onto bedding, or by covering your wormery with moist cardboard or even an old carpet! NEVER have a wet, soggy wormery!

3)    Try to keep the temperature constant. Wormeries can be left in a court yard, pantry or even your kitchen, as they are odourless and worms sanitise the bedding very soon. Avoid areas that are too sunny or windy.

4)    KEEP YOUR FOOD SOURCE AS STABLE AS POSSIBLE! Worms thus spend MORE energy mating and eating, instead of avoiding acidic spots, and only working certain areas they like. NB: Worms eat MICROBES! - hence they can only eat food that is readily decomposed. Chop your food finely, and/or bury into the bed.

5)    STOP fiddling with your worms! Worm “families” colonise a wormery and are VERY good at creating “eating hubs” ONLY move worms IF they are crawling up the sides in mass due to stress, heat or toxins. They are NOT cuddly pets, even IF they are fascinating. You CAN peek in at night with a torch and get to see some action:)

6)   To make MORE potent vermiliquid, pour the “liquid gold” at the base of your wormery back OVER the bedding, and ensure that you have good drainage! This ensures a more concentrated liquid, which should be the colour of weak coffee/strong tea, and have a slightly oily touch (enzyme secretions off the worms). Use your vermiliquid IMMEDIATELY for the best results, as it is a LIVE MICROBIAL PRODUCT!!

Sexually mature compost worm with yellow tail

7)    Change your beds EVERY THREE MONTHS!!! Stop feeding a bed +- 1 week before changing over/baiting worms to the new tray. TOO MANY PEOPLE WAIT FOR THE ENTIRE TRAY TO FILL!! As worms compact their food, they run the risk of “worm poop fatigue” - ie. too much poop, not enough food, and can die slowly, or stop breeding. * Bait worms with sweetened pumpkin and bury in the bed - worms flock there in a week!

8)    Keep your wormery well aerated. Most commerical wormeries have vent holes, yet the particles within the organic matter CAN clog up. Gently “comb over and dig gently” with a OLD pasta fork:) Do NOT churn your beds, as this disturbs your worms. NEVER USE A SPADE!! - as it can chop your worms!!

9)    ALWAYS mulch over the vermicompost you spread in your garden. This helps to protect the microbes, and also protects your plants. Add vermicompost to your potting/seedling mix for maximum results.

10)  Never stop learning, and have FUN with your worms. Worms are indeed a gift to mankind. SHOULD YOU HAVE TOO MANY WORMS, DONATE SOME to a worthy cause, especially food gardens.

Call Rudolf at 082 578 4171 for more information and to order your  compost worms and worm farms:)